winter time in Montana

The Montana Experience

My alarm goes off. It is still dark out. It must be early. All I know is that it feels too early to be doing this. The next thing that happens is the most important. I listen for the faint beep from the kitchen that tells me coffee is ready. I’m not leaving the comfort and warmth of my bed until the coffee is hot. Most of our tribe prefers French-press or pour over coffee. But between two of us and a heavy caffeine addiction, a 14-cup drip is just right, plus its ready by the time I have dragged myself out of bed.

El Nino typically unleashes its furry in the Southwest while we in Montana end up with dry warmer conditions for the winter months. That has not been the case so far this winter. We have had pretty spectacular conditions throughout the mountains of Montana. I live in Missoula, and there has been no shortage of powder this season, as long as you willing work a little for it.

 

The mountains here are not for the faint of heart. Lewis and Clark traveled these peaks, it nearly killed them then, and it hasn’t changed much since. The deep ravines filled with thick alder, creek crossings, and traveling up, over or around downed logs, fallen from age or fire, make for challenging travel to say the least. But if you are able to persevere and get past the route finding and up onto the ridgelines, you will be rewarded with beautiful rugged landscapes as far as the eye can see. And if you are lucky and the mountains allow, you might even get to ski your original objective.

Josh and I ski during most of our free time in the winter. We ski everything from resort groomers to steep remote couloir in the mountain of Montana. On one particular morning we set out with our good friend Julie to ski off the summit of Gash point. A prominent peak just west of a tiny town called Victor MT. The summit sits just below 9000’, giving way to an immense open tree-less bowl.

With the valley covered in white, we couldn’t drive all the way to the trailhead. This added a few extra miles of skinning on the roads. In Montana you can count on spending a lot of your time on forest service roads. After what felt like hours of contouring along the road, we reached the entrance to our ridge. We broke trail up the ridge. We got a glimpse of our Peak and it gives you an extra boost of energy to keep going.

We were breaking trail in knee-deep powder though low angle tress, assessing the snow pack. With recent snowfall we hoped to ski the main shoot off the summit, but these perfectly spaced tress with 12-16 inches of fresh cold smoke wouldn’t be a bad contingency plan.

 After 5 hours of climbing and never feeling like we were getting anywhere we made it. The snow was stable, the clouds cleared and we had a rare opportunity to see our line, knowing it was safe and we were able to rip down 2000’ vertical feet of open alpine bowl. The cold smoke blew into our faces and we giggled like schoolgirls as made out way down.

When skiing in the backcountry it is usually lower angle gladded areas that we are skiing due to avalanche danger. But the stars aligned for us today and we had one of the best ski days of the season.

 

Not Your Average 25K

            I’m not sure what a better title would be… maybe I survived the Rut, or even…don’t trust that step. Regardless of the title I DID survive the Rut.

layering Options - Outdoor Research

            In case you don’t live and breath trail running, The Rut is a weekend trail running festival put on by two world-class athletes and race directors Mike Foote and Mike Wolfe in connection with the best running shop in the West, The Runners Edge.  The race is held on the beautiful Big Sky Resort property in Big Sky Montana. There are multiple race distances for any ability. The Vertical Kilometer, the 25K, 50K, 11K and a Runt run for kids.  It was truly a wonderful mountain community gathering with lots of friends, trails, cool fall weather and of course beer.

            I did the 25K race. It started Saturday morning September 4^th at 8:00am.  Over the course of the 18mile (a bit longer then most 25K) we climbed a total of 8,000 feet and two very steep and technical ridges along the ski area boundaries.

Now when I say steep I am not talking slow running steep, I’m talking some people were on their hands and knees, crawling up, where the rocks and dirt slid out from under your feet if you made a wrong step and in some places the ridge dropped off hundreds of feet to your right or left.

Coming down Headwaters ridge

Good Morning Big Sky!

            Not your average mountain run is an understatement. The first few miles provided a nice warm up for all us racers, we chatted with each other and had words of encouragement for some fellow runners who were running their first trail race ever… (This girl was awesome). Once we started climbing the chatter quickly turned into heavy breathing and we all realized the real race had begun. We climbed headwaters ridge, and then descended down 1200 feet, and began the climb back up to our aide station, then onto the 1.5 mile 2000 foot bone crusher ridge.

            I’m sure at this point, most people were dreading this climb, but this was the whole reason I signed up for the race. A long, steep, exposed ridgeline to the summit of Lone Peak 11,250’ is totally my cup of tea. I have skied off the summit of Lone Peak but I have never been up on a clear day like we had. I was excited for the views. Getting to the summit, like any mountain experience, was COLD. I didn’t hang out long.. Just long enough to through on a jacket (Thanks Outdoor Research- My Deviator hoody was perfect), Look around for a split second, and start heading downhill.

Wearing my Deviator Hoody coming off the Summit

            As a mountain guide part time I love climbing steep ridges and well, just climbing in general. Most of my training for The Rut came from my 3 weeks in Washington State climbing Mt Rainier 5 times and occasional trail runs on my days off.

A sunny day on Mt. Rainier

Race Selfie - 

            Since we had made our two huge climbs already, there was just 6 miles of fun rolling trails through the lower ski area left. My legs were still feeling pretty good, but all the downhill running had taken a toll on my IT bands. I slowed significantly the last few miles and really was able to enjoy the beauty of the trails and again chat with fellow racers.

            I finished in under 6 hours… 5:43 to be exact, 29^th Women out of 110 starters and 11^th in my age group. That counts for top 25% of ladies.. .and this was one heck of a competitive race! I was super excited. I am not a trail runner by trade, I didn’t train specifically for this race and so just finishing was am accomplishment.

            I finally nailed my nutrition in a race, this has been a work in progress, but I have to Thank Hammer Nutrition for their continued support. I started my day with coffee and a banana. Then one hour before the race I took 2 Race Caps Supreme (RCS), 2 anti fatigue (AF) and one scoop of Sustained Energy. During the race I took one Gel an hour (usually Espresso or Huckleberry). I also Sipped on a flask containing 3 scoops of Sustained Energy and one gel. Ever hour I also took 2 RCS, 2 AF and 1 Endurance Amino capsules. I was never hungry, never low on energy and always felt good on the GI front. After the race I took advantage of the Massages from Sapphire Physical Therapy, and then drank my Orange-Vanilla Recoverit. Thanks Hammer… I couldn’t have done it without you!

            The weekend as a whole was amazing. The venue, the weather, the course and of course the trail running community all combined to make a top notch race and event. I have to hand it to Mike and Mike for a job well done. If you are a trail runner, this is not and event to miss… and if you are not, there is always the 11k to try it out or just come to watch some of the best trail runners in the world take on the Montana version of trail running.

            I’m already looking forward to next year; maybe I’ll even try the 50K.

Thanks for reading… stay tuned for more adventure in the mountains.

Taper Time for Ironman CDA

It has been one heck of a training cycle. 22 weeks and counting plus 4 weeks of base training over the winter... and in less than 2 weeks I will toe the line at Ironman Coeur d'Alene to see what Im made of.

It has been a busy 6 months. Training 8-20 hours a week, working 20-50 hours a week and going to Nursing school. Not to mention executing the largest fundraiser I have ever participated in: The Ironman for Anna fundraiser. I am honored, humbled and excited to represent such an amazing organization on race day!  chick here to Donate:

https://www.crowdrise.com/2015CoeurdAlene/fundraiser/jessicatapp

My fundraising jar at work!

 I have neglected my husband and many household duties over the last 6 months.. Josh Forgive me! It will all be worth it to cross that finish line and call myself an IronWoman!

Over the last few months I have rode some beautiful Montana roads, made some new friends and had the support of all my friends and family. I Couldn't have done it without everyone in my life! So Thanks!

Tenspoon 10K with Julie

Riding along the Missouri with Meghan on a beautiful Sunday

first ever 100 mile ride with Lisa... Yes we have Matching Bikes

In the last 2 weeks of the process I find myself hungry, tired and lacking motivation, all the signs of what is called Ironman brain and the cumulation of many weeks of training and balancing life with the end goal in sight. 

I have run in the cold and snow, biked in the rain and on the trainer while other were sleeping, I have been to the pool at ungodly hours before school/work to get in my training sessions and I have run after work when all I have wanted to do was sit and watch TV.  I have cried over too many dished in the sink and the dog not being fed..(sorry josh). I have taken unexpected rest days and I have eaten McDonalds because I was short on time.

These are my realities and I'm not ashamed of them. This process has been difficult mentally and physically. It has been a journey. Someone once said that the journey is more important than the destination, and as excited as I am to cross that finish line on Sunday June 28th, (hopefully), the process of pushing myself beyond my limits has been amazing, exciting, terrifying, and exhausting but I would do it again in a heart beat. 

In my final weeks before the race i am trying to stay positive and not let doubt, sorrow, pain, exhaustion and nervous energy creep in. I am fueling with lots of healthy food options and just trying to make it to the start line healthy both mentally and physically. I'm stretching daily (should have been all-along but ya know....hindsight is 20/20)...taking epsom Salt soaks 3x week and rolling on my foam roller ever night. 

Cold rainy bike rides

Long runs on Trail

Open water swim training

what a grocery shop looks like...4-5days worth

Besides eating well, training smart I also make sure I get 8+ hours of sleep a night, drink plenty of water, take my Hammer Tissue Rejuvenator daily. I try and live in the moment, even when the moment sucks!

I try not to share my true race goals on social media, but this time I will!

I was originally hoping for a top 5 in my age group and a spot in Kona.... That reality is gone but the goal of finishing in 12-13 hours isn't. 

I hope to have fun, stop for food/water, high five all the volunteers and spectators, live in the moment and enjoy the entire day! 

Just finishing my first Ironman will be a huge accomplishment and I can't wait to try. 

Race day: Sunday June 28th: Bib Number 120

stay tuned for updates...or follow me on the live athlete tracker: 

Thanks for Reading and following my journey. It's Been Fun! 

Racing Grizzly Sprint in Missoula 4/18/15:  2nd place AG, 9th OA:Photo credit: Joe Stone

Instagram: trigirl406

Twiter: culvie26

Facebook: Jess Culver-Tapp

Sponsors: Soas, Hammer Nutrition

How to Fuel with Hammer Nutrition

As one of the Hammer Nutrition ambassadors for the 2015 race season, I though I would help new comers figure out how to use all the different Hammer Products.

This is an algorithm I designed based on my own interpretation of Hammer Products. It is a basic guide to begin your journey with Hammer. 

I hope it helps, and Enjoy!

*(Remember- Use my customer #213964 to receive a discount on your first order) 

My hammer Drawer full of goodies

Laying out my run transition for a long sunday Training session

Kickin' Asphalt 10K race recap

This morning I ran a small local 10k in Great Falls, MT. There were only around 60 participants on a chilly September morning. The course was beautiful and followed the Missouri river along the paved river trail. I led a group of three women from the start, but pulled away after the first hill around mile one. I was able to run well enough to hold the lead through the next 3 hills and into the finish. Temps were in the low 40's with little to no wind, rare for Great falls. Overall perfect conditions for a morning run!

1st place female
2nd place overall


Could't have done it with the suppot anf fuel from Hammer Nutrition:
Pre race: Race Caps supreme
               Sustainened Energy

During: Sustained energy paste
Post race: Recoverite

The psychology of the summit

1st summit this season- May 16th 2014

With my first summit of Mt Rainier yesterday, I began thinking about what it really takes to summit. I have climbed Rainier many times now, but my clients are experiencing it for the first time.

The guide team on the summit

It takes us three days of trudging uphill with a heavy pack, batting winds, cold and very little sleep to physically get to the summit. And on the final few hundred meters of uphill, when you can see the summit and it takes everything you have to make your feet move forward to make it to the top. It stops being physical and becomes a mental challenge.

I remember my first summit, and it’s very similar to winning a race for the first time. The euphoric feeling when you summit or cross the finish line. The feelings you have had, the unknown if you will make it, wondering if you have what it takes and the inner dialogue that goes on during the climb or race. Not everyone will win a race and not everyone will summit Mt

Rainier, but if you are fortunate enough to successfully do either, it is a feeling like nothing else. This is a genuine accomplishment that no one can ever take away from you.

I am lucky enough to have had many summits of Mt. Rainier. It is the joy, excitement and raw emotions my clients experience when they finally reach the summit that keeps me going, makes me want to keep guiding.

My first summit of mt Rainier ever,  May 2010!

Fueling with Hammer Gel on the summit!

Recipe of the week

Stuffed Flank Steak:

 

Ingredients:

1 onion

2 cups chopped mushrooms

2 cups chopped spinach

3 garlic cloves (chopped)

1 flank steak (1/3lb per person)

Kitchen twine

2-3 Tbl Olive Oil

Preparation:

Pre hear oven to 350º

Sauté veggies over medium heat until tender (aprox. 20 min)

Add salt and pepper to taste

Place veggies in center of flank steak, roll and tie to secure

Bake on greased baking sheet for 40 min for medium rare.

Slice into delicate rounds, and serve!

Enjoy!

 

Change: A four-letter word

 

I hate change. 

You wouldn’t know that from my lifestyle for the last decade, but its true. Change causes me stress, anxiety and fear. It has been this way for as long as I can remember. The end of a school year, the end of a season, new jobs, new house new anything. 

Mid May every year for the last 7 years I have packed up my car, driven long distances and began a new lifestyle for the summer months. This year is no different. I will be packing up the car with the dog, and driving to Washington State to Guide on Mt. Rainier for a month.

Trapper enjoying the sunshine after a long run

I have worked for International Mountain Guides for 5 years now. After finishing finals, refreshing my wilderness first responder certification, a few local races and packing the car to make the 12-hour drive to Ashford, there has been quite a bit of change in my life. Not to mention my upcoming wedding in July. With all this change comes a lot of stress.

People always ask me how I handle my stress so well, because it never seams to show on my face. Well I have a little secret, I exercise, sleep eight hours every night and eat healthy. These simple lifestyle elements make all the difference to me. I am able to balance some crazy busy days with the help of my awesome fiancé Josh, and by taking care of what is most important, myself.

So my advice: Get off the computer, close out of facebook or pinterest, make a list of what is important to do in the next 3 days, plan out your days, and you will find that you have more time than you think.

I plan everything from my meals, to when I will cook, and when I have time to shower and walk the dog. This planning help we control the stress in my life from all the change that is constantly happening.

Finishing the 5K

On another note, here is a recap of my last three weeks:

April 27,2014 – Icebreaker Road race, Great Falls MT

            1^st place female overall. 19:44

What an awesome race, so many people involved. I was surprised and excited to have won the race. I didn’t set any land seed records but it was a personal best time for me in a 5K and my first win ever. A moment I will hold deer for a long time.

April 30^th – End of the Semester of Nursing school

            I have completed another semester of nursing school. I continue to add to the vast amount of random and not so random medical information floating around in my head. No the challenge is to retain it for the 13 week summer vacation. I am happy to say with as busy as I am I was still able to end the semester with all A’s and B’s. Another very proud moment for me.

May 3-4^th – WFR refresher

            Every two years I have to re-cert my wilderness first responder certification. This is a first aid course focused on providing care in wilderness situations. This was a fun course because it reminded me how much I miss and love wilderness medicine and why I got into nursing in the first place.

May 9^th 2014:

            Josh Left for his stint on Rainier. We will pass each other on the mountain but we will not see much of each other for 6 weeks. The life mountain guides.

May 11^th 2014:

            Unravel the scratch Gravel, Mt bike race, Helena MT

I’ll let you know how it goes.

May 12^th Last day of work as a CNA at the hospital for a month

May 13^th: Drive the 12+ hours to Washington

My Hammer Nutrition supply to get me through the 8 climbs up Rainier

May 14^th: 1^st climb of the season. I will start walking up Mt Rainier with my clients and begin our three-day adventure to the summit and back.

Whew, I’m tired and stressed just thinking about all that is going on right now. Good thing I went for a run today and already had a wonderful meal. Until the next adventure, I have one last piece of advice. Take time every day to do something for yourself. An extra 5 minutes in the hot shower, sitting in your car outside the grocery store to take deep breath and enjoy the quite, or go for a run on your 30 min lunch break. Whatever it is that make you happiest, find a way to work it into your schedule to help balance the craziness of life.